QUESTION: “My mother has an established Kwanzan Cherry tree. Last year the leaves turned yellow and dropped off prematurely and that year they are doing the same and are noticeably smaller than they have been in the past. Do you have any ideas what may be causing that. I would hate to have her lose the tree!” – A loving son.

ANSWER: With the extreme temperatures and drought that most of the country has experienced by the last couple of summers, trees and shrubs have been going into an early dormancy for protection. The leaves are smaller considering they haven’t had the chance to grow to full size.

During summers like that, I, too, notice trees of all types turning yellow and dropping their leaves. that will generally happen in late July and all through August. There isn’t a lot that can be done to prevent that happening.

However, it is always good to put a nice thick layer of mulch/aged compost mix around the base of the tree with a welled area immediately around the trunk. that will help to keep the root system cool and moist as well as decompose by the season adding much needed nutrients into the soil. Don’t attempt to fertilize as it will only confuse the tree more and can be even more damaging. I hope that helps to explain what is going on.

QUESTION: “Last December I had several small trees planted at my new home. One is a maple. It is about 6 inches in diameter now and very healthy looking. Beautiful deep green leaf with no evidence of pests, fungus, etc. I have noticed on the trunk in the middle on one side, right under the last branch, some cracking of the bark, not just peeling. Should I wrap that spot or just leave it alone? plus when should I fertilize it and additionally the crabapple trees that were planted the same moment? “ – Victoria Smith

ANSWER: Bark splitting is a common problem. I have included a link here from the Virginia Tech Extension site

on just that. The exposition tells how bark splitting happens and, more importantly, how to take care of the plant. You should find it quite helpful. http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/tree/jan90pr4.html You can visit on a direct link when you find that column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org

I am not a fan of fertilizing trees or shrubs their first year or so in the ground, particularly since the maple needs to heal from its damage. Fertilizing should be based on results from soil tests as the purpose of fertilize is to bring the soil up to balanced. The best thing to do for trees or shrubs (as I suggested in my reply above) is to apply a good thick layer of mulch/aged compost mix around the base of each plant leaving a welled area around their instant base so the mix doesn’t touch the trunk.

Thank you for your inquiry. I hope you are having a wonderful summer in your new home!

QUESTION: “I have a large concrete bird bath that has a red algae film. I can empty the bird bath and clean it out, but the red algae comes right back. Is there a way to get rid of it without harming the porous concrete or the birds that drink from it?” – Jan Cook

ANSWER: It’s nearly impossible to prevent algae, but you can control it. Wash out the bird bath with a solution of bleach and water, using a “pot scrubber” brush and be certain to rinse it thoroughly three times. I would imagine that your bird bath is in full sun so that will create more algae soon after whether it is in the shade. You can purchase some algae inhibitors at your local pet store but check the label to be certain it won’t harm the birds.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional info, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Original post by Greenwood Nursery